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11 Commandments of Good Cooking
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What better anniversary gift to give our readers on our 11th year than a sharing of wisdom, expertise, and favorite recipes by a group of 11 chefs, culinary instructors, a restaurateur, and home cooks, known for their cooking' In the following pages, they share their nuggets of gastronomic wisdom'which includes both homespun knowledge and scientific teachings learned in their mothers' kitchens or from studies in the best cooking schools here and abroad. FOOD dedicates this to the diligent cook to help her in her unending quest to improve her craft. 1. Thou shall familiarize thyself with the Maillard reactions By Chris Bautista What's that'!' you ask. The Maillard reactions refer to the collective processes that proteins undergo when exposed to high heat, the most obvious of which is the browning effect. Now, wait! Don't let this chemistry talk turn you off and make you skip to the next commandment. Cooking, after all, is 99 per cent chemistry. The remaining one per cent, I'd like to believe, is magic. And that's what I like about this Maillard thing. Although scientists now know what takes place when meats are subjected to high temperatures and why it takes place, they have yet to identify most of the chemicals produced that give browned meat its characteristic flavor. It is, as of yet, still in the realm of magic. In this day and age where the human genome has been mapped, we still don't know what makes all the browned crusty bits of chicken inasal taste so good. I won't torture you with details of this chemical reaction, all you have to know is that brown equals flavor and pale equals insipid. This may sound like Pinoy humor about our superior tanned skin but this is serious stuff for cooks. Whichever way you plan to cook your meat, force yourself to go the extra mile for whoever is eating it afterwards: always sear well-seasoned meat to golden brown glory. A crust should form all over the meat, juices oozing out and evaporating quickly, leaving behind a thick syrupy jus that eventually sticks to the bottom of the pan (or the metal grate if you're grilling). That stuff is called 'fond' in French, and incidentally, that's the object of a procedure called deglazing. Browning meat when grilling or broiling is rather automatic'you really can't help it because of the high temperature and the meat's proximity to open flame. When braising, stewing, or oven roasting, however, you'll need to brown the meat in a pan before putting it in the oven or before adding your braising liquid. And I mean really giving it a good searing until it has a rich dark amber color. I see many people'home cooks and professionals alike'go through this step half-heartedly and haphazardly; some even skip it entirely. Oh most mortal of all culinary sins! To illustrate my point, I'm including a recipe for a very simple roast pork loin. If you cook this correctly, its heavenly taste will be your reward. But if you screw it up, the experience of eating it will be enough penance for your sin. Roast Pork Loin with Cream Cheese and Sun-dried Tomatoes 10 Servings 4 large garlic cloves, crushed 3 sprigs fresh rosemary + 4 tablespoons for searing 2 1/2 kilos whole pork loin 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 225-gram (1 cup) bar cream cheese 1/2 cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes Salt Pepper Paprika 1/2 cup white wine (if needed) 1/2 bottle (375 ml) dry white wine for deglazing Marinate the meat: ' Crush the garlic and rosemary together in a mortar and pestle or with a large spoon until you can smell the rosemary. It doesn't have to be finely crushed'just enough to release the essential oils. 'Pour in the olive oil and mix together, crushing the mixture a little more. Set aside. 'Take the meat and make a cavity in which you will stuff the cheese and sun-dried tomatoes. Do this by laying the meat on a chopping board in front of you, its length running from left to right. Using a sharp knife with a thin long blade, make a small incision, about two inches wide, on the side facing you. Gently insert the blade, making a pocket in the middle of the meat without making the opening any wider than the initial incision. When you're finished, the loin should have a cavity running its length with a 2-inch opening that is easy to secure with a toothpick. 'Blot the pork loin with a piece of clean cloth to remove excess moisture. Rub the olive oil mixture all over the meat and inside the cavity. Leave to marinate in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes or up to eight hours. 'Half an hour before you're ready to roast, preheat the oven to 2200C (around 425ºF). 'Meanwhile, prepare the stuffing. Soften the cream cheese by taking it out of the refrigerator. When it has come to room temperature, mix it with a wooden spoon until soft, creamy, and homogenous. Add the chopped sun-dried tomatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 'Stuff the pork loin with the cream cheese mixture by pushing it inside the cavity a tablespoon at a time or by using a piping bag. 'Squeeze out any air pockets and then secure the opening with a toothpick. 'Sprinkle a liberal amount of salt, pepper and paprika all over the meat, and rub it in with the prepared olive oil marinade. Just be careful you don't squeeze out the stuffing. 'Heat a heavy-bottomed roasting pan on a stovetop. Drizzle about two to three tablespoons extra virgin olive oil on the pan and sear the pork loin, fat side first. 'Resist all temptation to poke it or move it around while searing. Just let it be for a couple of minutes. You should hear the pan sizzle all throughout the process. If it stops sizzling after a few seconds, that means the flame is set too low. You'll notice that juices ooze out of the meat while you sear it. The pan should be hot enough to instantly evaporate these juices or else they accumulate on the bottom of the pan, preventing the browning of the meat. 'When you have finished browning all sides of the pork loin, put it in the oven (using the same roasting pan) to roast fat side up. 'Roast 45 minutes to 1 1/2 hours, depending on the thickness. To test for doneness, quickly insert a small knife in the middle of the pork loin. Hold the blade in for two seconds and remove. Touch the tip of the blade. It should be hot. 'Watch the bottom of the roasting pan, too, and prevent the pan juices from scorching into a black soot during the cooking process. The jus has loads of flavor and it would be a pity if you allow it to burn. If you see that the pan is drying up before the pork loin is cooked, add half a cup or so of white wine but don't add too much because you do not want the pork loin to stew. 'When done, remove the roasting pan from the oven. Transfer the pork loin into another plate and let rest for 15 minutes covered loosely with foil. If there's too much fat in your pan, remove all but about two tablespoons. Simmer the pan juices over the stovetop and deglaze with half a bottle of dry white wine. 'Simmer to reduce the pan juices by half. The consistency should be homogenous and slightly syrupy. Be careful that you don't reduce too much or the fat will begin to separate. If it does, just add a few more sloshes of white wine and simmer to reduce, this time taking the pan out of the heat before the fat separates again. Taste and adjust the seasoning. 'Remove the foil covering the pork loin and cut it into slices 1/4 inch thick. Arrange on a platter and drizzle the sauce over it. Serve with rice or mashed potatoes.' 2. Thou shalt not kill natural flavors By Virgil Calaguian A very common fault or weakness in Filipino cooking is the tendency to overcook and consequently kill the flavor of food. This is especially true with vegetables. We boil or stew them (even when we start off by sautéing them) with so much determination, it's as if we're intent on making them absolutely tasteless. This propensity to overcook was understandable in the old days when there were no refrigerators to prevent food from spoiling quickly in the heat of the tropics. Food was thus thoroughly cooked, in order to kill any harmful bacteria and avoid the possibility of an upset stomach or, worse, food poisoning. Nowadays, however, there's no longer any excuse or justification for such a grievous sin. One doesn't really have to be a gourmet to appreciate the singular pleasures that natural flavors bestow on the palate. Even an utterly simple dish like the ubiquitous chop suey can be a delight if cooked right. Thankfully, more and more people are now awakening to this essential commandment of good food preparation: Bring out and enhance natural flavors and do not commit the crime of killing or murdering them through too much cooking, handling, or processing. For today's well-tempered cook, vegetables should be crisp, pasta should be al dente, fish should be intact (it should be soft but firm), and as for meat'well, that may be boiled and simmered until tender but even then one should take care that it doesn't become stringy and as tasteless as boiled cardboard. The secret to crisp and crunchy vegetables is really quite simple'fast fire and short cooking. Don't let those veggies linger in the pot or pan or else they'll turn soft and lame and as unappetizing as pulp. Some veggies, of course, require more cooking time than others, so when making pinakbet or ratatouille or something like that, follow a pecking order of putting in the veggies that need the most cooking first. Another secret is to minimize the use of water in cooking. When I stir-fry kangkong, for instance, the only water I use is that left on the vegetables from washing. Without adding any more water, I cook the vegetables over high heat, and cover the pan soon after throwing in the vegetables. This seals in the flavor and at the same time creates steam that will further moisten and cook the vegetables. Even mashed potatoes have to be cooked just right, otherwise you'll end up with a soggy and tasteless mush. Good mashed potatoes should be fluffy, not water-logged, and have a golden yellow color, not grayish white. The key to this is in the boiling. Make sure it's not a second too long. And drain the potatoes as soon as they're done. Some may equate freshness with blandness, but it ain't necessarily so. A salad, the quintessential example of fresh food, doesn't have to be that sorry pile of tired carrots and whatnot we find in many a salad bar or that measly side dish thrown around in some restaurants. With a bit of imagination, it can become a festival of flavors and good enough to be the main course, the piece de resistance, of a meal. Yoghurt Dressing Makes about 1 cup This dressing, a creation of mine, is amazingly easy to make yet it can add a whole new dimension to any salad. 150 grams plain yoghurt 6 tablespoons olive oil 4 tablespoons white wine vinegar 4 heaping tablespoons mayonnaise Coarsely ground black pepper Sea salt 'Put all ingredients in a blender. Add a little water and blend until smooth. If you want an Italian flavor, add basil and/or oregano to the mixture. Salad For the salad shown here I used the following ingredients but you can freely add, subtract, or make substitutions. You may, for instance, scatter capers or sprinkle Parmesan cheese on it, as well as add chopped walnuts, almond slivers, or sliced yellow or red bell peppers. Ham and other processed meat may also be included, though that seems to defeat the purpose of producing a bowl of fresh, natural goodness. The volume or quantity of each ingredient depends on your personal preference and the number of people you're serving. Just aim for variety and balance in the composition. Lettuce, torn by hand White onion, chopped Cucumber, thinly sliced crosswise Carrot and celery, finely julienned, plunged in hot water, drained and chilled Cherry tomato, sliced in half and dressed in oil, vinegar and crushed dried basil leaves White asparagus, thoroughly drained Chick peas, green peas, white beans and kidney beans, if fresh: boiled, drained and chilled; if canned: drained and chilled Camembert cheese, cut in small wedges Salted salmon flakes (available in Japanese food stores) 'Assemble all ingredients in a salad bowl. Drizzle with the yoghurt dressing.' 3. Thou shall cook with good wine By Raul Manzano Use wine, of course, for the flavor, not for the buzz (that might not be a bad thing at all, though, if the dish doesn't end up so good). Wine is, after all, such a complex accretion of flavors and textures that magic happens during the chemical reaction when it comes in contact with food under the right temperatures. Alcohol can bring out the diverse characteristics of certain foods, but there's something about the quality of wine that totally differs from that of other alcoholic beverages used for culinary purposes like brandy or sherry. The next question is what sort of wines to use' To which there is no simple answer. We use different wines to get different flavors. The thing is, no two wines are perfectly similar. They all have unique nuances, which means, cooking with wine never promises any set results. The basic principle is this: don't cook with any wine that you won't allow to touch your gullet. Because it should go without saying that your final results will be dictated by the kind of ingredients you put in. However, don't think you have to use a Chateau Margaux for your beef bourguignonne. Anything that is okay to drink'at least one that will not make your face turn purple in seconds' should be sufficient. I strongly caution you to stay away from the so-called 'cooking wines' that are available from the imported goods section of supermarkets because they're simply vile'they taste nearer to vinegar than anything else. And besides, they have extremely low alcohol content. Bottomline: don't go out spending a fortune, but choose good quality wine and be wary of the wine's level of sweetness or saltiness because they can radically alter the taste of the dish. Wine is perfect for adding that extra zing to stews. Sauvignon Blanc emphasizes the flavors of herb-based dishes, while Zinfandel, with its berry characteristics, are perfect for fruity sauces for duck. The wonderful thing about cooking with wine is the large potential for experimentation. Try to practice your creativity and learn how certain things combine. Remember that there are no set rules. Well, not quite. Your taste buds are still your best judge. For instance, make sure to balance out all the flavor elements in a dish. Meat and fowl, for instance, can handle a certain degree of acidity, but fish can't. Another suggestion is to pour in the wine gradually, not in a slapdash manner, so you can gauge if the taste is all right' remember that it's easier to add, rather than reduce. Also, be careful when diluting sauces with wine as there's a strong chance that you'd end up with a raw wine taste. Another tricky part is the stage in the cooking process in which to add the wine. Remember this rule: alcohol evaporates as flavor concentrates. The process of reducing depends on wine color. According to the Global Gourmet, 'White wine needs to be reduced just a small amount, to burn off most of the alcohol. Red wine should be reduced until it is almost gone.' Three major uses for wine. First, as marinade. Not only does it tenderize the meat, it can also add another dimension of flavor to it. Second is deglazing a sauté pan and using it as base for sauces. Third is for finish, poured only towards the end of the cooking process to highlight the subtle flavors and aromas of the dish. Remember: The possibilities are endless. If all else fails, you can just charge the dish to experience, finish the rest of the bottle, and get yourself drunk to the point of blissful oblivion. BEEF BOURGUIGNONNE 4 to 6 Servings 1/4 cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 kilo cubed beef brisket 1/4 cup butter 1 onion, chopped 1 red pepper, diced 3 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 kilo button mushrooms, cleaned and left whole 1/2 kilo baby onions 4 carrots, peeled and sliced into ½ inch pieces 2 cups good quality red wine 1 bay leaf 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme 'Preheat oven to 3500F. In a small bowl, combine flour, salt, and ground pepper. Coat the beef cubes with the mixture. In a cast iron pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the meat and brown well on all sides. 'Stir in onions, red peppers, garlic, mushrooms, baby onions, and carrots. Sauté for five to 10 minutes, or until onions are tender. Add wine, bay leaf, parsley, and thyme. 'Put pot in preheated oven and cook, covered, for two-and-a-half hours. Remove cover and cook for another 30 minutes. If needed, add more wine, chicken broth, or water. Serve hot. Note: Make sure you use a cast iron pot or a pot that's oven-proof.' 4. Thou shall season and let the layers of flavors develop By Maur Aquino Lichauco with Dennis Hipolito Many culinary professionals have their own 'little' secret in cooking. My culinary secret is to flavor and season as I layer the ingredients. I have learned this through time and through experimentation, with numerous successes and failures along the way. Seasoning may be done in the form of adding aromatic salts, herbs, spices, fruits, acidifying agents, sugar, and even umami in the form of MSG or umami-laden vegetables like mushrooms. When I was much younger, I used to follow the old style of cooking, that is, to season things in the beginning of the sautéing process then to finish seasoning in the end of the cooking process to finalize the desired flavor. As time went by and after numerous hours in the kitchen, I learned that the principle of seasoning as an ingredient or a group of ingredients is added is a very important rule to follow. During the cooking process, the flavors are developed during the layering and seasoning of ingredients, resulting in a more complex flavored dish. In contrast, putting together ingredients and seasoning the dish only at the end results in a dish without complexity, a dish that's bland. When the flavors of the dish are layered, the process brings out the flavors of each ingredient while just seasoning the sauce or broth results in a flavored base with components that are insipid. When you make classic paella, for example, the sofregit/sofregite (mirepoix in French cooking, composed of onions, celery, and carrots) is sautéed and should be seasoned very well to bring out the complex flavors of the base (usually made of onions, garlic and tomatoes) before the rice is added. The broth is then added and seasoned. It is then cooked till the rice is almost al dente and further seasoned to correct the flavors, then finished either on the stove or in the oven to fully cook the rice. Many even sprinkle lime juice over the paella to balance the flavor better. On the other hand, when the sofregite is cooked without allowing it to develop its flavor, you'll have a base that's half done and it would give the perception that 'it's just one of those commercially produced paella dishes.' When sautéing the onions, garlic, and tomatoes in olive oil, sauté the onions and garlic well and let them caramelize before adding the tomatoes, which are then gently simmered. This will produce a sweeter and a milder balanced base. In contrast, if the onions, garlic, and tomatoes are just sautéed together without giving them time to develop their inherent good characteristics, you'll have a perception that it's a bit raw or improperly cooked. This is the main reason some chefs or cooks create better dishes than others. It's all about applying the right cooking principles and sticking to it. The concept of flavoring during the cooking process and allowing the flavors to develop balances the recipe better and corrects the flavor balance. Whether you're making paella, adobo, stir-fried vegetables, or braised beef, each recipe involves sautéing and adding the ingredients in sequence to develop the flavors. In the process, you'll also have the opportunity to season as you go. Saffron Paella 12 Servings 8 tablespoons ( ½ cup) olive oil, divided 1 head garlic, peeled and chopped 1 cup onion, chopped 2 cups tomato concasse (blanched, peeled, and diced tomatoes) 1/2 teaspoon saffron 4 ½ cups rice (dinurado, Calrose, or Spanish Rice) 7 - 9 cups chicken stock or broth 2 pandan leaves 6 chicken drumsticks, halved 1 cup ham 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1 onion, chopped 2 slices bacon, chopped 2 pieces squid, cleaned and sliced 1 chorizo, chopped 1 cup tomato sauce 2-3 tablespoons tomato paste 2 tablespoons rock salt 1 tablespoon pepper 1 tablespoon sugar 1/4 kilo shrimp, shelled and deveined 3-4 pieces crabs, split 1 can (about 1/2 cup) pimientos, sliced 'In pan, heat six tablespoons of the oil and sauté garlic and onions until translucent. 'Lower heat and cook further until the onions are starting to lightly color. 'Blend in tomatoes and saffron. Continue cooking over low heat until tomatoes break down and the mixture looks like a compote. 'Add rice and stir until coated well. 'Add about seven cups chicken stock and the pandan leaves. Boil gently adding enough seasoning and stock to almost cook and flavor rice. 'In a paellera, heat remaining two tablespoons olive oil and brown the drumsticks. Remove from pan and set aside. 'Add ham, garlic, onions, and bacon. Cook through. Add squid, chorizo, tomato sauce, tomato paste, and remaining stock. Season with salt, pepper, and sugar. 'When mixture starts to boil, add shrimp, crabs, and the browned drumsticks. Simmer until sauce is greatly reduced. Adjust seasonings. 'Add the partially cooked rice and determine consistency desired. Mix in pimientos. Add more stock if needed. Adjust seasonings to taste. 'Cook in the paellera without stirring over low heat for about 30 minutes or bake in a 350ºF oven, covered with foil.' 5. Thou shalt simmer By Carlo M. Tadiar If there's anything that gets my goat in the kitchen, it's seeing adobo or even sinigang being left at a rapid boil till done. My mom's new cook has a tendency to do this, despite instructions to the contrary, especially when she has started a meal late. For a while there, I had the strongest urge to cover up the large burners, so she would be forced to use the smallest ones and slow down her cooking. But then where would that leave us when it came to steak' Slow, gentle cooking is an indispensable procedure for many of the best dishes in all the world's cuisines. Stewing, braising and poaching are cooking techniques which require simmering. Braising means cooking with less liquid, so that the liquid doesn't cover the meat or whatever it is you're cooking. The lesser amount of liquid (usually the juices of sautéed vegetables loosened with water, wine, or stock) ensures a thicker, richer sauce at the end. After quick sealing or browning and sautéing over a higher heat, the pot or pan must be covered and moved literally to the back burner over a low flame and left to simmer until everything is tender and rich and the meat is falling off the bone. A lid must be placed over the cooking vessel, so that the juices steam up and bear down, exerting a gentle pressure that softens the meat and renders the liquid dense and sticky with flavor. Please pardon my science. This may not be an accurate explanation of the physics of the process, but every cook works with some kind of theoretical framework, his or her own logic that accounts for a consistency of results and a basis for innovation'whether or not that explanation is scientifically correct or not. If the vessel for braising has no plastic or rubber parts (a Dutch oven, for example), it may also be placed in an oven, which allows the heat to come from all around. This intensifies the process, so that you get a sticky softness more quickly. Poaching is gentle cooking, but it is not slow. It is reserved for delicate ingredients like fish and eggs, which alter very rapidly over a fire. The French technique for poaching a fish requires a special oblong cooking vessel with a slotted tray within, which allows the fish to be pulled out from the cooking liquid once the simmering has cooked it to perfection. Poaching is a cooking technique that cannot be learned except over time and through experience, as the process must be stopped as soon as the main ingredient is just cooked, or sometimes even before. And there are always variables involved, like the size of the fish, the intensity of the burner, the temperature of the cooking liquid at the start, even the humidity of the kitchen (which I believe actually slows down the cooking time). The principle can be exemplified by the variability of a four-minute boiled egg. In your own kitchen you might get one perfectly cooked, a bouncy white and a creamy golden yolk; in your mother's kitchen, you may get something almost raw, the white only barely opaque, and runny. A sinigang is a kind of poaching. Too hard and long a boil will ruin the delicacy of the fish and make indistinguishable the subtle but distinct flavors which comprise the dish: fragrantly sour tamarind or kamias, sweet tomatoes, and the slight bitter of barely cooked kamote tops. Being essentially a lazy person, I prefer a simmering that has no pressing time limit. I learned to cook in graduate school, and stewing and braising were the easiest, most convenient ways of preparing a good meal. They have the additional virtue of allowing large quantities to be made and they lend themselves well to freezing and reheating. You could start a stew or a braise and plod through a chapter of brain-numbing theory then achieve satori by just closing the book, lifting the lid of the pan and stirring. Epiphany. One of the first dishes I learned is from my aunt, Evelyn Mandac, the great opera singer, who happens to be an extraordinary cook. It's a simple classic curry. Aunt Evelyn has a great repertory of Indian dishes because her husband hails from the subcontinent. The following recipe is for chicken, but you can also use lamb or goat. Chicken Curry 6 Servings 2 tablespoons sunflower or soya oil 5 cloves 5 cardamom pods 2 cinnamon sticks or 4 or 5 shards of cinnamon bark 1 large chicken, cut into pieces 1 teaspoon cumin 1 teaspoon turmeric 2 large onions, quartered 2 bay leaves 2 bird's eye chilies, finely minced 1/2 teaspoon chili powder 1/2 cup plain yoghurt Pinch of sugar 'In a medium pot, over medium heat, heat oil until hot but not smoking. Add cloves, cardamom, and cinnamon sticks (local bark is more widely available but not as aromatic). Heat until pods begin to pop open and the spices release their heady perfume. 'In batches, brown the chicken pieces on all sides in the fragrant oil, setting aside pieces that have already browned. 'Return the chicken into the (Continued on page 45) (Continued from page 43) pot, then add cumin, turmeric, onions (add more onions if you want more sauce), bay leaves, chilies and chili powder, yoghurt, and sugar (feel free to adjust the spiciness according to your liking). 'Bring the heat to low, and simmer until the meat is falling off the bone. 'Like many slow-cooked dishes, this curry will taste even better the following day. Put it in the fridge and the fat will rise to the top and congeal. Discard the solidified fat before reheating.' 6. Thou shall use only high-quality ingredients By Maritel Nievera Shani Using the best ingredients is the first and the most important commandment of cooking'because a great dish can only come from the right selection of the finest ingredients. It's a fact that the choice of ingredients plays a crucial role in the end result of your cooked food. In these hard times, many would resort to using substandard raw materials or will opt to substitute ingredients to fit their budget. What they don't realize is that using inferior raw materials will greatly affect major food attributes such as: Appearance'the overall look of how the food appears can make or break the appetite. When we use low-quality ingredients, it will be seen on the food's presentation. Color'If you use inferior ingredients, the food's color will not be as rich as the one made from high-quality, color enhancing products. Colors make food appetizingly irresistible. Texture'The food's consistency is also a major attribute. The thickness of the sauce, the freshness of the vegetables, the crispness of the lettuce are all about the choices we make. Aroma'One of food's attributes is how good it smells. Only the finest ingredients can release a mouthwatering aroma. Taste'The end result of cooking is how the food tastes. It's the greatest measure of all the attributes because this is the moment of truth. How a dish tastes is the result of the ingredients we've put into it. As a hands-on restaurateur I know that great quality food is the lifeblood of my business because the way I prepare the food (from sourcing raw materials up to the finished product ) is the most important reason why my customers keep coming back. KARE KARE 8 Servings 1/4 cup cooking oil 1 1/2 tablespoons crushed garlic 1/4 cup sliced onions 1/2 cup annatto oil (atsuete) 1/4 cup patis 1 1/2 kilos ox tail 1/2 kilo ox cheek 1/2 kilo ox tripe 20 cups water 600 grams (2 1/2 cups) ground peanuts 1 bundle sitaw (string beans) 1/2 kilo long eggplants, sliced diagonally in 2-inch rounds 3/4 kilo pusong puti (banana heart), sliced in 1-inch rounds To serve: 1/4 kilo bagoong alamang, cooked 'In a wok, heat oil and sauté garlic until light golden brown. Add onions and stir-cook until onions are wilted 'Stir in annatto oil and patis. Add ox tail, ox cheek, and ox tripe and stir. Allow to simmer for five minutes 'Pour in water, and bring to a boil. Let boil for five minutes. Reduce heat and simmer for two hours or until meats are tender. 'Dissolve ground peanuts in a little water and add to meat mixture. 'Discard both ends of sitaw and slice into two-inch pieces. Add to the pot together with eggplant and pusong puti. 'Continue simmering for 20 minutes or until peanuts are cooked, sauce is slightly sticky in consistency, and vegetables are crisp-tender. 'Season to taste with salt. Serve with rice and cooked bagoong alamang on the side.' 7. Thou shall be joyful while cooking By Felice Prudente Sta. Maria Joy in the heart brings a smile to the tummy. That's what Philippine elders used to say, although in different words. My wonderful cook of a grandaunt Lola Uning Encarnacion knew from experience in her Rosario, Cavite kitchen that when her assistant cooks were in the right mood'happy rather than grumpy'there was less to go wrong with a fiesta lunch. The less stress there was at a kalan, the better for a meal. A quick embrace, a reason to chuckle, and a reprimand accompanied by kindness were vital to guaranteeing fine food. Biochemists today know that emotions do not reside in just the mind; the entire body inside out experiences every emotion. If one is angry, for instance, every single cell in the body is in angry mode: from one's crown down to each toe. Having a pleasant disposition can mean the difference between ube jalea cooked just right or one that's burnt. I remember Uncle Jake whistling as he stirred the heavy purple pudding to perfection over a low flame at Lolo Entong Prudente's house in Barrio Salinas. He sensed that boredom, bad memories, and anxiety could spoil everyone's favorite dulce. When magic realism became a literary genre, as in the novel Like Water for Chocolate, writers were putting into words the emotional element of cooking and eating that seems to be universal. As the 21st century approached, the 'positive psychology' movement initiated by Martin Seligman at University of Pennsylvania and his colleagues gained increasing supporters. Positive psychology has created the science behind personal happiness. His work expands understanding of happiness to include not just the traditional idea of a pleasant life teeming with positive emotions. In his book Authentic Happiness (Free Press, 2002), Seligman notes there is joy from a life totally immersed in what one is doing, a life where one is positively using strengths and virtues in love, work, and play. His third type of a happy life comes from the satisfaction of serving others and being committed to 'larger' missions and advocacies for the greater good of others. Happiness comes from many elements around us, some so simple. It could be a yellow butterfly landing on the window sill while one is brewing coffee, the sound of a pied fantail calling for its mate in the ficus benjamina clump, or a refreshing breeze wending its way into the kitchen on a rainy day. There is nothing like listening to Cecile Licad's rendering of Liebesfreud (Love's Joy) while mincing shallots and chopping tomatoes for a sambal, smiling while adding that pinch of salt or sugar to a Binondo stir-fry, or even humming along as Yo-yo Ma plays a passionate passage from a Piazzolla tango while adding jerez to arroz con crema. The unexpected extra tablespoon of alcoholic spirit that comes with a punctuated stomp of the heel makes the difference between ordinary and sublime! ARROZ CON CREMA 6-8 Servings This is an enriched version of common arroz con leche once popular especially as an Easter Sunday dessert. The earliest Philippine recipe I have for it needs cow's milk. It was published in 1919, although much older recipes appear in Spanish cookbooks used by provincial manors. I only began adding liqueurs after reading The Foods and Wines of Spain by Penelope Casas (Knopf, 1984). For the pudding: 2 383-gram cans (3 1/2 cups) thick cream 1 383-gram can water (use can from the thick cream) 2 cinnamon sticks Peel of 1 lemon Pinch of salt 2/3 cup rice 1 1/4 cups white sugar 1 tablespoons anisette liqueur 2 tablespoons brandy or cognac 2 tablespoons butter For the topping: 1/4 cup salted butter 1/3 cup sliced (either match-stick or coin-like) skinless almonds 2 teaspoons muscovado or brown sugar 2 teaspoons cinnamon powder 'In a pot, combine cream and water. Mix in cinnamon, lemon peel, and salt. Allow to boil once, then lower heat drastically. 'Stir in rice and simmer for two to three hours, stirring every 15 minutes to be sure rice does not stick or brown at bottom. Once the consistency is just starting to get creamy and not dry, turn off heat. Stir in sugar, anisette, brandy, and butter, allowing them to melt in the hot rice. Cool then transfer the pudding to individual serving bowls. Prepare topping: ' In a small frying pan, melt butter over medium heat. Add almonds and cook until just golden and crisp. Remove from heat. Stir in sugar and cinnamon. Divide equally as decorative topping for each portion.' 8. Thou shall be organized in the kitchen By Victoria Reyes-Ferrer Organization was not always in my books. As I was growing up, cooking was not in my books either. My mother was the organized one; with 11 children she had to be. She taught us how to be and get organized; but as kids are sometimes wont to do, it flew over my head, or as the saying goes, it 'entered one ear and went out the other.' The few times I was in the kitchen with my mother or with the cook, they called the shots and I just followed orders. Convent school in Baguio changed all that. Being an intern in St. Theresa's College forced me to develop the habit of being organized with everything that I possessed and did. Our beds and cabinets (called presses) were inspected every morning while we were in class. You got a gentle dressing down or reminder from the nuns when things were askew in your cabinet or when your bed wasn't made up properly. Even your books at your desk in the study room didn't miss the scrutiny of the sister-in-charge. And it certainly paid off. Because when marriage called me to cooking and the kitchen, I found I could work more efficiently when things were all in their proper places or when they were within arm's length from me. Being organized is reflected in the way things are arranged and grouped in the kitchen. The pans are all together in one place, the pots and utensils are nearby, as are the baking pans, measuring spoons and cups. Ingredients are also less than three feet away from my prep table. Working in the kitchen can get crazy sometimes, especially when you have guests and you have a whole menu to prepare. It pays to know where to grab things when you need them. Being organized in the preparation of ingredients likewise cuts down on confusion. Because then you're not flying from one corner of the kitchen to the next looking for things you need. Moreover, being organized gives you some free moments to relax or to pretty up before guests arrive. Even better, it will make your heart sing when your guests oooh! and ahhh! over your spread and compliment you on how serene and unfazed you look despite all the preparations and cooking you did. All recipes benefit from being prepared in an organized kitchen. Here is one of my recipes that is simple and a breeze to make. TUNA CROQUETTES 2-4 servings Because baking powder starts its action when mixed with a liquid, the croquettes must be cooked within 15 minutes of mixing the baking powder into the tuna water. 2 184-gram cans (1 1/4 cups) solid tuna in water 1 whole egg 1/2 cup all-purpose flour, sifted 1 heaping teaspoon baking powder 1/4 cup tuna water (from drained tuna) Ground pepper to taste Salt, optional 1 cup vegetable oil 'Wash cans of tuna with soap before opening. Into a bowl, drain tuna and reserve about 1/4 cup of the tuna water. 'Add the egg to drained tuna and mix well. Add the sifted flour and again mix well. Set aside. 'Add baking powder to the reserved tuna water. Beat with a fork. Let rest. Mixture should foam and reach about 3/4 of the measuring cup. (If the mixture does not foam, the baking powder is old.) 'Pour the foamed liquid into the tuna batter and mix with a fork. 'Using two teaspoons, form tuna mixture into oblong shapes or balls. In a deep saucepan, heat oil to high. Drop tuna croquettes and lower heat into the heated oil. The croquettes will float to the surface when done. Some of the croquettes will have filigreed sides like lace. 'Serve with mayonnaise-garlic dip or Thousand Island dressing. For the mayonnaise-garlic dip: Mince three cloves garlic and mix with one cup mayonnaise.' 9. Thou shall always trust thy own taste By Tina Diaz The quest for good recipes is never-ending. I have scoured second-hand bookstores for hard-to-find cookbooks and back issues of culinary magazines. I have sat hunched for hours in front of my laptop searching for recipe sites, and I have shamelessly bugged friends or sweet-talked their helpers into disclosing treasured family recipes. Always with glee and bottled-up excitement I would go scurrying to the grocery to look for ingredients, prepping them on a perfect day dedicated to kitchen testing those prized culinary prose. The results have been as varied as their sources. Some recipes would turn out great the first try, others would need some tweaking before getting a good thumbs up, while a smattering of dishes would end up in disaster. I used to get frustrated when a dish was not coming out the way the cookbook promised it to be. Its sauce would be too tart or the fish quite bland. But time and again, these numerous kitchen adventures have proved to me that if I plod on, what looks seemingly hopeless could give way to even better results. I've realized that a good recipe is only half of the story, and that ultimately in my kitchen it's my taste that matters. As I start each recipe by following the directions, those dishes that eventually rate high on my list are the ones I'd end up seasoning according to my taste. A recipe that doesn't turn out the way I like doesn't have to be banished in the refrigerator for weeks; I simply adjust and correct to my satisfaction. I have discovered that cooking from recipes can only be as successful as one's eye for palatability; and anyone who loves to eat, whether a novice cook or a seasoned one, can tell if a dish is good or not. If you know how you want your food to taste, you can adjust a recipe's outcome without fear of failing. The path to gastronomic delight is never intended to be a one-way street. Since recipes are dynamic tales told from the point of view of each cook, the story doesn't necessarily unravel the same way for each one, though all may lay claim to happy endings. When I recently attended a three-month culinary course, we were given recipes with exact measurements for each ingredient, yet I saw first hand how the chefs simply used their hands to measure salt and spices and sprinkled away as if with abandon, and I thought this was quite a contradiction to the exactness of their recipe handouts. But then I tasted how these sleights of hand produced mouth-watering results, and I finally understood that years of honing their craft have bestowed on them a good feel for their recipes, so much so that masterpieces are achieved by a dash here and a sprinkle there. Though we were given measurements for ingredients to direct each recipe into its potential result, we were also taught to taste and correct according to our standard, urging us to develop our own feel for cooking. So if you think you're striking out on a recipe, have faith. If you trust your taste, then good food is never far behind. PASTA IN FRESH TOMATO CREAM 4-6 Servings 2 kilos firm red tomatoes 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided 2 tablespoons minced garlic 1 medium size white onion, finely chopped (about ½ cup) 1 tablespoon salt 1 teaspoon Italian seasoning 1 425-gram can sliced button mushroom, drained (about 1 3/4 cups) 2 cups heavy cream 1/4 cup white wine 500 grams linguine, cooked as per package directions Parmesan cheese 'In a large pot, blanch tomatoes in boiling water for 30 seconds. Remove from water and immediately plunge in a basin of ice water to stop the cooking. Peel tomatoes, remove seeds, and slice into medium size quarters. 'In a wide pan, over medium heat, heat 1/4 cup of the olive oil. Add garlic and onions and cook-stir for one minute. Pour in sliced tomatoes. Stir in salt and Italian seasoning. 'Turn heat down to lowest setting. Cover pan and let tomatoes stew gently for one hour, stirring occasionally, being careful not to mash the tomatoes. 'When tomatoes are cooked, heat remaining olive oil in a separate pan. Add mushrooms and sauté for about two minutes or until liquid released from the mushrooms reduces. 'Add the stewed tomatoes and bring to a simmer. Pour in cream and white wine. Stir gently and cook just until mixture simmers; season with salt if desired. 'Serve over cooked pasta and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.' 10. Thou shall salt lightly at the start of cooking By Cherie Mijares Of course there's the time-honored emergency cure for over-salting: throw in a potato to absorb the excess salt or soy sauce from the dish you're cooking. But peeling a potato was too much trouble, so during failed experiments as a novice cook when I had put too much salt, I'd choose to add water to lessen the saltiness of the simmering broth, and end up with a dish that somehow lost the richness of its flavor and texture from being watered down, literally. She studied home economics at U.P. and so my mother knew what she was talking about when she'd often remind me that it was better to under-salt than to put too much of it. Start with less salt than what you normally put in, and then, as the cooking progresses, taste it often so you can correct the seasoning as you go along. And remember to use a tasting spoon, she'd hasten to add, and not the ladle or spatula you're cooking with. This makes sense for hygienic reasons. Always have a little spoon to which you pour a small amount of the dish with the cooking ladle. You can start safely with a small quantity of salt; about a level teaspoon of sea salt for every kilo of meat, chicken or fish. When my mother was making pork barbecue or embutido or meat loaf, she'd fry a small tablespoon of the mixture and taste that. From there she'd add a few more dashes of salt or pepper, or pineapple juice or pickle relish, and proceed to finish cooking the dish. Besides, she said, lessening the salt just a little gives each diner the option to add more salt at the table if he prefers, helping those who might be watching their salt intake as well. I noticed too that Filipino balikbayans from the U.S. suddenly find many of our dishes too salty, the same dishes they used to love when they were living here. Tastes change after living abroad, when they become more used to the lighter level of seasoning in the States. But then, I read that one characteristic of French cooks is that they're not afraid to salt their dishes generously. I tried that too, and found that indeed adding just a tad more salt to the potatoes and carrots I'm roasting in the oven gives a heftier flavor to the veggies and roast beef. The outside of the roast becomes nicely brown and tasty and toasty, while the inside remains moist and juicy. How then to strike the right balance' When it's a saucy or soup dish I'm cooking, I play it safe by starting with a little salt, adding more as I go along. But if it's a roast or grill, I find I can be more generous (but not too heavy handed) with the salt right from the start, and the dish would turn out just great. LAMB STEW 6 Servings 1 1/2 kilos lamb cubes 1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper 3/4 cup flour 1/3 cup olive oil or cooking oil for browning the lamb 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 1/2-2 cups coarsely chopped onions 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1/2 teaspoon Italian seasoning 1/2 teaspoon dried basil leaves 1 small sprig oregano 1 chicken or beef broth cube 3 tablespoons red wine 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 3 tablespoons tomato paste 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1-2 roasted bell peppers, cubed 1 1/2-2 cups water OR stock 1/2-3/4 cup sliced button mushrooms Salt to taste 'Lightly season lamb with salt and pepper. Dredge lamb cubes in flour. Heat the 1/3 cup olive oil in a skillet and fry lamb cubes until golden brown on all sides. Remove lamb from pan and set aside. 'Heat the three tablespoons olive oil in a medium saucepan. Sauté onions until translucent. Add garlic and sauté until just before it gets brown. 'Add the Italian seasoning, basil, oregano and broth cube. Stir often, crushing the broth cube until you have a paste. 'Pour in wine; simmer until it evaporates. Stir in parsley and tomato paste, bell peppers and water OR stock. Add browned lamb and Worcestershire sauce. Bring to a boil, then lower heat to simmer and cover pan. 'Simmer for 30 minutes, stirring often to make sure the meat doesn't stick to the bottom of the pan. Add a little more water or stock if sauce is getting dry. 'Add mushrooms, and salt to taste. Cook 10 to 15 minutes more.' 11. Thou shall be patient By Norma Chikiamco There is some point in the cooking process when you just have to let things be. As difficult as it may be to keep from peeking in the oven or tinkering with the frying pan, letting the cooking process take care of itself is sometimes the only way to achieve the desired results. I learned this the hard way. When I was newly married, I tried several times to cook battered fish fillets, a favorite dish of my husband. Each time, the batter would tear away when I'd try to turn the fish over in the pan. Worse, much of the batter would stick to the pan, separating from the fish that it was supposed to coat in the first place. I'd end up serving my husband some sorry-looking fish, with the batter desperately clinging to the surface and the sides of the plate. Despite all the cooking lessons I took before I got married, nothing in my notes gave me the solution to this frustrating problem, and for many years I refrained from cooking fish fillets. It was only when I read an article in an American magazine that I realized what I was doing wrong. Among other things, I was being too impatient, turning the fillets to cook the other side without giving the heat sufficient time to brown the batter so that it would adhere to the fish. I'd also put the fillets in the oil before it had reached the proper cooking temperature, another reason they would stick to the pan. Foolish as I felt for not realizing these basic principles, I nevertheless felt vindicated to learn that I wasn't alone with this problem, that this was a common mistake among home cooks. The next time I cooked fish fillets, I followed the instructions in the article. I allowed the oil to heat until it shimmered, a sign that it was hot enough for frying. Then I gently laid the fish in the oil and allowed the first side to cook to a nice golden brown before flipping the fish to cook the other side. It was like an epiphany. Unlike previously, when I would have to wrestle with the fish to pry it loose from the pan, this time it offered no resistance. It easily gave way, and I was able to flip it over to cook the other side with the batter coating still intact. Likewise, I let the second side cook to its finish before removing it from the pan. That evening, for the first time, I was able to serve my family fish fillets coated evenly with crisp, golden brown batter. The experience drove home the point: As in life, patience when cooking is a virtue. To cook fish fillets correctly, I only had to leave them alone in the pan for four minutes on the first side, and another three to four minutes on the second side'not very long as cooking processes go. And yet, I couldn't even wait that long (or, in this case, that short). I tried to speed up a process that couldn't be hurried, like a spoiled child who can't wait to open her Christmas presents. Since then, I have applied this lesson to my other cooking tasks. When I brown meat before stewing it, I make sure I give the oil enough time to heat, and the meat enough time to brown. I don't peep in the oven every five minutes to check if my cake is rising properly, and when I cook pasta, I don't try to hurry up the boiling process by fidgeting with the pot. These ingredients, I've learned, are smart. If you try to bully them, you'll only end up being the loser. Never having heard of multitasking or supersonic jets, they won't give in to intimidation, much less to coercion, from cooks who don't know any better. They ask, instead, that you respect their nature and let them cook of their own accord. In short, you need to patiently allow the alchemy of cooking to take place and at some point, you must have enough faith to just let things be. Only then will you achieve the perfect results and be rewarded with a delicious meal. FRIED BATTERED FISH FILLET 6 Servings 1 kilo fresh white fish, such as lapulapu or mayamaya, deboned and filleted 4-5 pieces calamansi, OR 1-2 whole lemons 1-2 cups cooking oil Salt and pepper to taste Flour for dredging 2 egg whites To serve: Lemon wedges OR malt vinegar OR: Tartare sauce (recipe follows) 'Slice fish fillets into serving pieces. Squeeze calamansi or lemon juice over the fillets and let stand for 15 to 20 minutes. 'Heat a large skillet over medium heat for one to two minutes. Pour in cooking oil and increase heat to high. Season fish with salt and pepper. 'Dredge fillets, one piece at a time, in flour. Dip in egg whites. 'When oil is sufficiently hot (the point where it starts to shimmer), drop in the fillets, one at a time. Reduce heat to medium. Be sure not to overcrowd the cooking pan or the fillets will steam rather than fry. A medium size skillet, for instance, can hold only three to four fillets at a time. 'For thin fillets (about one-half inch thick), allow first side to cook for two to three minutes. For medium fillets (about three-fourth inch thick), let first side cook three to four minutes. For thick filets (one-inch thick), let first side cook for four to five minutes. 'With a heatproof spatula, turn fish over. Allow second side to cook one more minute for thin fillets, two to three minutes for medium fillets, and three to four minutes for thick fillets. 'Fish is done when it flakes easily with a fork and when the inside is no longer glassy. Remove from heat and drain on paper towels. Serve with lemon wedges, or malt vinegar or tartare sauce. Tartare Sauce 1/4 cup chopped onions 1/4 cup pickle relish 1 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard Sugar to taste Salt and pepper to taste 'In a bowl, mix all ingredients together. Serve with fish fillets.' Add your comments Note: comments reported as offensive will temporarily be suspended until reviewed.
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 A man of many interests, Virgil Calaguian traces his interest in food to his childhood when he spent innumerable hours watching family meals being prepared in the kitchen. Later, he began teaching himself how to cook when he first went to live in Japan and the local fare seemed all too exotic for him (he loves Japanese food now). Virgil moved back to Manila some years ago but he continues to spend considerable time abroad, including a recent month-long sojourn in Tuscany, a gastronomic experience he has promised to write about for FOOD in the near future.  As co-founder and editor of FOOD Magazine, Norma Chikiamco combines two of her passions: writing and cooking. A journalism graduate, she was a scholar at the Berlin International Institute for Journalism in Germany and covered newspaper beats before turning to feature writing. She has also taken master's degree courses at Syracuse University in Syracuse, New York and took classes at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. Her awards include first prize in the Carlos Palanca Memorial Awards for Literature for her short story for children Pan de Sal Saves the Day, an outstanding journalism award from the Australian New Zealand Chamber of Commerce, and a National Book Award from the Manila Critics' Circle for editing The Best of FOOD Magazine Cookbook.  Kare kare  Pasta in fresh tomato cream (Styling by Gina Navarro/Photo by Charlie de la Rosa)  Saffron paella (Styling by Gina Navarro/Photo by Charlie de la Rosa)  Roast pork loin with cream cheese and sun-dried tomatoes (Styling by Chris Bautista/Photos by Charlie de la Rosa)  Felice Prudente Sta. Maria is an everyday home cook and founding chair of the International Wine & Food Society Manila Ladies Branch. She has been writing and lecturing about food since the 1970s for Philippine and foreign audiences. Soon to be launched is her latest book, The Governor-General?s Kitchen: Philippine Culinary Vignettes and Period Recipes, 1521-1935 (Anvil Publishing, 2006) that includes over 160 recipes as well as many curious words and stories about the evolution of Philippine food and food ways.  Many of today?s best professional and amateur cooks learned their skills and knowledge from Maur Aquino Lichauco. A beloved doyenne in the Philippine culinary scene, Maur was one of the first to teach culinary classes around 40 years ago. Her generosity and strict teaching practice have created many good cooks in the country today. She believes in seasoning gently and enjoying life immensely.  Carlo Tadiar is editor in chief of Metro Home & Entertaining and Metro hiM, both by ABS-CBN Publishing, Inc. He majored in humanities and fine arts at the University of the Philippines. He has an MA in cultural anthropology from the Graduate Faculty of the New School for Social Research. He can?t resist anything served raw.  First known as an investment banker and entrepreneur, Raul Manzano has found another playground, in the publishing world this time as senior associate editor for the successful Metro SOCIETY magazine. A benevolent party host, he?s a natural at lavishing guests with unforgettable dishes that carry the imprint of his bonhomie. Even people at ABS-CBN Publishing have occasionally been the beneficiaries of his gourmet sandwich baons.  Restaurateur Maritel Nievera Shani started her food business in 1974 as a small bahay pasalubong selling specialty food dishes. The business grew into a restaurant called ?Ituro mo, Iluto Ko.? Not only did Maritel conceptualize the Pampango specialties served; she also made Capampangan food popular in the Philippines. Apart from this, an operational system was created that allowed the business to expand to more outlets popularly known as Cabalen. This year marks Cabalen?s 20 years of serving home-cooked Filipino dishes. Aside from Cabalen, Ms Shani also owns Oody?s Thai Rice Noodles N Bar, Oody?s Xpress Famous Food and Desserts of Thailand. She?s also part owner of the Mangan group of restaurants.  Beef bourguignonne (Styling by Gina Navarro/Photo by Charlie de la Rosa)  Salad with yoghurt dressing (Styling by Virgil Calaguian/Photos by Peter Oxley)  Chef Chris Bautista earned his diploma in French pastry with a mention bien at the Ecole Ritz-Escoffier at Hotel Ritz in Paris. After training briefly at Le Soufflé and EDSA Shangri-La, he joined Gourdo?s where he has been chef and manager the past two years, during which time it was named one of the Philippines? best restaurants in 2005.  Chicken curry (Styling by Gina Navarro/Photo by Charlie de la Rosa)  Victoria Reyes-Ferrer, FOOD contributor and recipe tester, is wife to Luis, an architect, and mother to two daughters: Ria, also an architect, and Ida, an advertising photographer. They share their home with three beautiful Labradors. She?s a graduate of business administration at St. Theresa?s College, Quezon City, and earned masteral units in Asian Studies at the University of the Philippines.  An associates and occupational studies graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, NY, chef Dennis Hipolito honed his training at the Ritz Carlton Hotel in Chicago and InterContinental Hotel in Manila during and after school. He then moved back to the Philippines soon after then started contributing to FOOD Magazine. He?s also an accomplished food stylist and currently the consultant chef to URC Flour and Pasta Division, Unilever RFM Ice Cream Inc (Selecta), and Lee Kum Kee.  Arroz con crema (Styling by Gina Navarro/Photo by Charlie de la Rosa)  Tina Concepcion Diaz is a full time mom who runs her pastry business from home. She has been steadily supplying cakes and pastries to well-known caterers for the past 15 years. In between baking and raising a family, she spends her time writing food articles, developing recipes and kitchen-testing cookbook recipes for FOOD Magazine. She recently attended a three-month culinary course at the International School for Culinary Arts and Hotel Management, and this year, finally decided to open a small café for dessert lovers, Taza Platito Café, which showcases her signature chocolate temptations such as Caramel Chocolate Cake and Double Chocolate Chip Fallen Cupcakes.  With a full schedule as FOOD?s managing editor and associate editorial director of ABS-CBN Publishing, Inc, Cherie Miares indulges her love for cooking and baking only on weekends. She describes herself as an ?instinctive? cook, using recipes only as a guide and weaving in her own innovations. A communication arts graduate, she took lessons in international cuisine with Pat Dayrit of Le Cordon Bleu, and earned her MBA units at the Ateneo Graduate School of Business. |
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